Weekend in Gogarth!
Wow! No other expletive comes close to describing how much fun I had last weekend when I went over to Gogarth with Chris, Ben, Andrea, Owen and Julie.
Friday
Chris and I set off early on the Friday around 08:00 after a short delay as Chris finished off his packing. A clear run over the Snake Pass got us to Glossop where we stopped for beer and wine before we hit the road and ripped round Manchester and over into Wales where our enthusiasm took a down-turn as we passed through a few showers of rain, some of which can be quite heavy. As a consequence we decided to nip down to Llanberis to check out the gear shops (new cam and various krabs were purchased) and have a bite to eat in the (in)famous Pete's Eats. The rain got heavier as we left Llanberis but we kept our hopes up as the weather can be so much different on the coast.
Found the campsite pretty easily thanks to the Google Maps Mobile application on the phone and as it was dry decided to pitch the tent before ditching some bags and heading off to Holyhead Mountain for a climb. T'was pretty windy at the car-park, and even more so up at the crag, but we geared up and I led a VS 4c up a corner crack that wasn't quite as easy as it looked from the ground. Upon topping out we both felt a few spots of rain, so after Chris reached the top we decided to dash back down and scarpper back to the car before the big grey wall approaching from the south-west hit us. Fortunately it never did.
Before heading back to the campsite we took a wander down to the lighthouse at South Stack and watched the birds soaring on the exceptionally strong winds that were hitting the cliffs.
The geology on show was quite amazing, and the bridge looked like it was a large Mecano set!
Back at the campsite it wasn't long before we were joined by Ben and Andrea who had spent Thursday night in North Wales and eaten in Llanberis before coming over to Hollyhead. As Ben and Andrea had grabbed a bite to eat in the ever popular Pete's Eats we adjourned to the Paddlers Rest (a whole two minutes walk from the tents!) for the evening where Chris and I grabbed some food and a few pints were consumed over several games of pool. With climbing on the cards for the next day none of us were too late to bed.
Saturday
The next morning was gorgeous and as I was up early I went for a walk to the beach near the campsite.
There was a lady setting up her kayak to head out paddling around the headlands so I hun around and snapped a few pictures before heading back to the campsite to see if anyone else was awake.
Upon arrival I found Ben itching to get going and wondering if Chris was up yet. He must have been awake and listening as I went to rouse him from the tent only to be met by Chris on his way out. A short breakfast and some strong coffee for the others and we headed off to Castel Head South of South Stack lighthouse.
The abseil point was fairly obvious by virtue of the seven odd pegs and numerous bits of tat hanging from them, but it was still backed up by a nut in a crack and a static line was dropped down. Owen, Ben and Julie abbed down and attached themselves to the start of Rap, and after making sure Chris was happy with the abseiling (it had been a while since he'd done any) I set off gingerly down the rope. Stopping on the mid-way ledge to snap a shot of the others. As I left the ledge I started moving leftwards towards the start of our climb (Lighthouse Arete), but after a while realised I wasn't going to get there abseiling and would have to climb across attached to the abseil rope! I scoped out where I was aiming for and slowly set off, letting out slack through the prussik which was the only thing that would stop me sliding to the end of the rope and into the sea if I came off! Took a few minutes but I was grateful to arrive and quickly set up a belay which once sorted allowed me to relax. Signalled to Chris that I was safe and he should come down. As he made his way down the rope he got to a simliar point (although a little higher) where I told him he now had to traverse across to reach me. The look on his face indicated that he wasn't completely sure about doing this, but there was little else to do! Slowly but surely he made his way across whilst I snapped pictures of Owen and Julie getting a soaking from a few rather large waves.
As I was attached to the belay and the second pitch was harder Chris got to lead the first pitch which went straight up a largeish crack to a ledge just under an undercut hanging groove (second pitch). He took his time, in no small part due to the extreme exposure on the relatively sheer rock-face and the fact that he'd never done any sea-cliff climbing before (nothing like baptism by fire!). A gentle reminder that placing some gear might be a good idea was required, but after that he was fine. I followed up and we swapped over the gear for the next pitch and I led on through with some nice moves through the overhang and significantly less exposure in the corner/groove. I was going to go all the way to the top, but for ease of rope management stopped and bought Chris up and he finished the final short scramble. Ben, Owen and Julie had only just finished Rap, and Owen and Ben abseiled down to do the climb we'd just done. Chris wasn't keen to jump straight back on another climb which was ok so we sat around chatting with Julie before she headed back to the campsite to meet Andrea (and drink some wine!). Chris and I sat around chilling out watching the birds soaring on the updrafts and beautiful sky in front of us.
Back at the campsite not only had Andrea and Julie been drinking wine they'd been preparing a lovely veggie curry. Squeezed into Owen & Julie's camper van we tucked into popadums, chilli pickle, mango chutney and an “authentic” Thai salad I'd made before the main course was served. We we're all too stuffed for the cake and custard desert so adjourned to the Padler's Rest (again) for the evening where Flash (Ben & Andrea's greyhound) was quite a hit. A few games of pool ensued but no-one was that late to bed. As Sunday was the BIG day.
Sunday
Sunday was an earlier start as we had to pack up the tent, but everything was done and we were off into Holyhead by around 09.30. Passing through we headed along the marina and out towards a country park by the old quarries that were worked to provide the stone for the harbour defenses. As we set off on the track up the hill there was a toad sunning itself on the gravel.
It was a really clear day and the view back over Holyhead was pretty good.
The slog up the hill was relatively easy and we found the top of Wen Zawn without a problem, it wasn't too hard since there were a couple of other climbers racking up! We quickly followed suit. Owen and Ben were a bit quicker so set off to arrange the abseil rope and we all waited patiently to descend into the Zawn. Whilst chatting to the other climbers it transpired that one of them, Pete, was the guy who'd served me in Joe Brown's on the Friday. He was mainly into his bouldering, but his friend had dragged him out for some sea-cliff adventures, like me he wasn't too sure about the abseiling, and its a fairly looong abseil down.
I went down first and arranged a belay half-way up the first pitch of Dream of White Horses as the tide was still too high to get to the bottom. Chris joined me and we then spent 30-40 minutes waiting for Ben and Owen to vacate the belay between pitch 1 and 2 where they'd been sat for a similar amount of time waiting for two guys ahead of them to move on from the next belay! Whilst it was sunny the Zawn was in the shade for most of this time, so when I'd followed Chris up to the belay I suggested that we pack in any aspirations of doing Dream as it was going to take too long. Chris agreed so we dug the guide out. Brittomartis that Pete and his friend looked good, but they'd taken a very long time at the top and it involved quite a traverse (albeit along part of pitch 2 of Dream). Instead I opted to head up Dde, and HVS that followed a nice ramp up to a sentry box underneath the abseil line. Perhaps the most uncomfortable belay I'd managed to find all weekend as I was stood on a spike, but Chris adeptly followed me up. We swapped over on the belay and I led the last half of Dde to return us to our starting point where we pulled up the rope of the two guys who'd been in front of us all on Dream, and then ours as there was no way Ben and Owen were going to make any use of it.
We headed back to where the rucksacs were stowed and met Julie and we waited for Ben and Owen to finish off the last pitch of Dream of White Horses before heading back to the cars in the setting sun. Ben, Andrea, Owen & Julie all headed off to grab a bite to eat on the way home, but I'd arranged for Chris and I to swing by Llandudno to visit my grandmother who had also said she'd cook for us. After being fed and fixing the video player we set off on the road back, taking a short detour as part of the A55 was closed for roadworks, eventually arriving back in Sheffield around 23.00.
All in all an amazingly good weekend. I was a little disapointed not to have got Dream of White Horses done, but it just gives me something to head back for, although I'd be heading back anyway as it was such good fun. I think the main reason I enjoyed it so much was that I actually felt quite comfortable climbing on the sea-cliffs for the first time. If you're not worrying about why you're hanging from a rock above the sea then you can focus more on the climbing and enjoying it.

















































